Your Butter Chicken Has a Nepalese Passport
How Nepalese Teenagers, a Visa Loophole, and an Obsession with Cheese Naan Conquered Japan Here is a delicious irony for your lunch break. Japan has roughly 4,000 to 5,000 “Indian” curry restaurants—more than it has McDonald’s outlets. Yet the country’s actual Indian population is barely 60,000. The Nepalese diaspora, nearly five times larger, runs practically every single one of those shops. How? A glorious bureaucratic gift called the skilled labor visa, which demands ten years of chef experience but does not ask too many questions about which South Asian country that chef comes from. The result is an invisible empire of sweet, oversized naan, molten cheese bombs, and butter chicken gravy so mild that it makes ketchup feel spicy. But here is the punchline: Japan just raised the visa capital requirement from 5 million yen to 30 million yen. The very loophole that built this empire is now slamming shut. Thousands of neighborhood curry joints face extinction. The cheese naan, it tur...